When it comes to winter skincare, the terms “dry” and “dehydrated” are often used interchangeably, but is there a difference between them, and what do they mean?
Dry skin is caused by a reduction in the amount of a specialised lipid (oil) in the outer layers of skin that would usually trap water (moisture). Reduction of this specialised lipid results in increased water loss (trans epidermal water loss—TEWL) through the skin into the atmosphere. Once the amount of water loss exceeds a certain level, a sufferer will feel tightness, sensitivity and a loss of skin plumpness. The degree of water loss can vary. When there is only slight water loss, this is often referred to as ‘dehydrated’ skin. When the level of water loss is greater, the clinical and sensory changes become more severe and the label changes to ‘dry’ skin. Dry and dehydrated skin are differentiated by the degree of water loss occurring through the skin.
Many internal and external factors can cause dry skin.
You could have a genetic predisposition to have dryer skin. Some people don’t make enough of the natural moisturising factors necessary to trap water in the skin. Others have a genetic predisposition to altered levels of specialised lipid production in the skin. As we age, our skin also produces less of the molecules that keep the fatty layers in our skin healthy, and we also produce less of the molecules that naturally bind water in the skin.
External factors that cause dryer skin might include (and are not limited to) living in a dry environment, seasonal change, using the wrong products, inflammatory conditions, allergic reactions, procedures like peels, and the abuse of exfoliators. The list goes on and on.
Looking into the skin, the dryness is caused by the loss of oily molecules (lipids) that are found in between the cells that lie in the top, dead layer of skin. The job of these lipid layers, combined with the dead skin cells (referred to as the skin barrier), is to keep water in the skin and foreign substances out. When these lipids are lost, or the layer is damaged, water loss will increase through the skin, called trans-epidermal water loss or TEWL. TEWL is what we commonly call dehydration. Water is lost, the skin feels tight and dry, and fine lines appear as the skin loses its plumpness.
The loss of water in the skin has a knock-on effect. When insufficient water is trapped in the epidermis, the enzymes that exfoliate the skin are unable to function correctly. Dry skin cells build up, and the skin becomes dull and lifeless. It may even develop cracks and start to flake.
Adding oils:
Applying a ‘rich’ cream to your skin provides a temporary improvement, adding a layer on top of the skin. However, this does not fix the fact that the lipids between the skin cells have been lost. We need to replace these lost oils or lipids with lipids that are structurally and functionally similar to those that have been lost.
At Lamelle, we replace these lost lipids with bio-identical Ceramides in the form of a proprietary ingredient called Ceramide P, which replaces the exact structure of the skin's lipid bilayer. In the process, more water is trapped, the shedding of dead skin cells is increased, and the skin's health is improved. The entire Lamelle Serra range contains Ceramide P.
One of the very best moisturisers you can use to restore your skin barrier is Lamelle Serra Restore Cream (R630.00). This light, non-oily moisturiser combines Lamelle's patented Ceramide technology with skin-soothing Oat Beta Glucan and skin-healing dexpanthenol, as well as a complex blend of essential fatty acids to assist the body's natural repair of the skin barrier.
Treat your skin to an intense moisture boost with a mask two or three times per week. Lamelle Serra Lipid Recovery Mask (R585.00) contains Ceramide-P, essential fatty acids, moisturising Urea, the cell-repairing antioxidant Purslane, and soothing shea butter. In cases of extreme dryness, this mask can be applied every evening and left on overnight.
Adding water:
The viable layers of the skin need water to function well. We can assist the skin by adding humectants that trap water. The most well-known of these is Hyaluronic acid. We can also add hydrolysed elastin and collagen to increase the skin's water-binding capacity. The challenge is that if we add these ingredients without ensuring the lipid bilayer is intact, we would be wasting the products, as we need the lipid to trap water in the skin.
Combining products in the Serra range with the hydrating ingredients in the Lamelle Correctives HA+ Serum (R840.00) provides many forms of hyaluronic acid to replace and trap water in the skin. This winning combination also increases plumpness and healthy cell functioning while ensuring the lipid layer is in place for healthy skin functioning.
Learn more at www.lamelle.co.za
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